Don't repeat the command. You want the dog to respond on the first utterance, not the second, third, or fourth. If the dog does not perform the behavior within 2 seconds of your command, reinforce the command with the help of your leash. When you begin training a dog, never give a command that you are not in a position to reinforce.
Otherwise, you risk training the dog to ignore you because there is no follow through from your end and the commands have no meaning. Create a positive meaning for the dog with praise and consistency. Praise natural sitting behavior. Look for times throughout the day when your dog just sits on his own. Praise that behavior, and pretty soon you'll have a dog that sits for attention instead of jumping or barking at you. Get some food treats or a toy and find your dog. Hold the toy or treat in view so he focuses on you.
Use the treat or toy to encourage your dog to lie down. Do this by moving the toy or treat onto the ground in front of the dog, between his front legs. His head should follow it, and his body should follow shortly thereafter. Be accurate with your praise, too.
If you praise him halfway down or up, that is the behavior you will get. Always praise him immediately when his belly is on the ground. Dogs read body language well and learn hand signals quite quickly. If he pops up to get the treat, do not give it to him, or you will be rewarding the last behavior he did before the treat. Just start again, and the dog will understand that you want him all the way down on the ground, as long as you are consistent.
Don't lean over your dog. Once your dog has caught onto the command, stand up straight when giving it. If you loom over him, you'll have a dog that only lays down when you are leaning over him. You want to work on being able to get your dog to lie down from across the room, eventually.
Teaching a dog to respect the threshold is important. You do not want a dog that runs out the door every time it opens — that could be dangerous for him. Doorway training doesn't need to happen every single time you go through a doorway. But you should make the most of your training opportunities early in your puppy's life. Place the dog on a leash. You should have him on a short leash that allows you to change his direction from a close distance. If your dog moves to follow you when you step through the door, use the leash to stop his forward movement.
Praise him when he waits. When he realizes that you want him to stay in the door instead of walking through it with you, lavish him with praise and rewards for the "good wait. Teach him to sit in the threshold. If the door is closed, you can even teach your dog to sit as soon as you place your hand on the doorknob. He'll then wait while the door is opened, and not cross the threshold until you release him. This training should be done on leash at the beginning, for his safety. Give a separate command to encourage him through the doorway. You might use a "come" or a "free.
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Practice leaving the dog at the threshold and do something on the other side. You might get the mail or take out the trash before you return and praise him.
One more step
The idea is that you do not always call him across the threshold to meet you. You can also come back to him. Have him wait patiently while you prepare his meal. Eventually, he will sit on his own as soon as he sees his feeding bowl. Hand feed your dog. At meal time, start feeding your dog out of your hand. Then use your hands to put the rest of the food in the bowl.
This should help fix or prevent any food aggression tendencies. To teach this command, do the following: Hold a treat in your closed hand. The dog will probably lick, sniff, and paw at your hand in an attempt to get to the treat. Eventually, when the dog moves his nose away, praise him and give him the treat. Hold one treat in your palm in front of the dog and one behind you in the other hand. Place the treat on the floor. Move the treat from your palm to the floor. Continue to reward your dog with the treat you have behind your back.
If he eats the treat, go back to an earlier stage. Give your dog a toy to play with. As he takes the toy in his mouth, reward him for the behavior with praise. Plus, he gets to play with the toy! Transition to less rewarding objects.
How Should You Do It?
It's easy for a dog to learn "take" when the object is so much fun! When he's mastered the connection between command and behavior, move on to boring objects. Examples might include newspapers, light bags, or anything else you might want him to carry. Do not get into a tugging match with the dog. When you tug, the dog tugs back harder. The value of the "sit" and "wait" seem obvious, but you may not understand at first why the "stand" is an important skill to teach your dog.
You won't use the "stand" every day, but you'll need it throughout the dog's life. For example, a dog who can stay calmly in a "stand" is the ideal patient at a vet clinic or client at a groomer's. Prepare for the training session. Grab his favorite toy or prepare a handful of treats to both focus your dog's attention and reward him for learning the command. Put the dog in a starting "down" or "lie down" position when working with the "stand" command.
He should move from lying down to standing up to get his toy or treats. You want to coax him into the standing position by having him follow the toy or treat. Hold the toy or treat in front of his face, at nose height. If he sits, thinking that will earn him a reward, try again, but with the treat or toy slightly lower.
Encourage the dog to follow your hand. Flatten your hand with your palm down. If you're using a treat, hold it with your thumb against your palm. Start with your hand in front of his nose and move it away a few inches. The idea is that the dog will stand up while following your hand. You may need to use your other hand to encourage him from underneath his hips to get the idea at first. As soon as he reaches the standing position, praise and treat. Although you haven't yet started using the verbal "stand" command, you can use it in your praise: Add the verbal "stand" command.
At first, you will work only on getting your dog to stand by following the hand that holds his toy or treat. When he's mastered that concept, begin incorporating the "stand" command into the training sessions. There are many ways to combine commands. Eventually, you'll have your dog performing these commands from across the room.
On its own, this command is something of a novelty. Inexperienced trainers sometimes find "speak" training spirals out of control. They end up with a dog who barks at them all the time. Clicker train your dog. Teach your dog to associate the click sound with a treat by clicking and treating a few times in a row. Continue this clicker training until your dog sees the click sound as a reward in and of itself. The treat will come later. Figure out when your dog barks most. This will vary from dog to dog, so you have to observe your specific pet.
He might bark most reliably when you withhold a treat, when someone knocks on the door, when someone rings the doorbell, or when someone honks a horn. Recreate the triggering event. The idea is to encourage him to bark on his own, then praise him for the action. You can see how this might be dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced trainer. That's why "speak" training is a little different from the other commands.
You'll incorporate the verbal command from the very beginning. That way, the dog doesn't think you're praising him for his natural behavior. Use the verbal "speak" command from the beginning. As soon as your dog barks for the very first time, give the verbal "speak" command, click, and give him a treat. The other commands thus far have taught the behavior first, then added a command that preceded the behavior. However, "speak" training gets out of hand too easily that way. The dog gets rewarded for barking at first. Thus, it's better to associate the verbal command with the behavior already in progress.
Never reward the dog for barking without the verbal command. If you have a dog who naturally barks too much, you might not think teaching him to "speak" is going to help your situation. However, if you teach him to "speak," then you can also teach him to "quiet. Give the "speak" command. However, instead of rewarding the "speak" barking , wait until the dog stops barking. Give the verbal "quiet" command. If the dog remains silent, reward the "quiet" no barking with a click and a treat.
Understand the value of crate training. You might think it cruel to pen a dog up in a crate for hours at a time. But dogs are instinctively den animals, so confined spaces are not as oppressive to them as they are to us. In fact, crate trained dogs will seek out their crates as a source of comfort. Crate training is a useful way to manage your dog's behavior when he's unsupervised for extended periods of time. For example, many owners crate their dogs when they go to sleep or leave the house. Begin crate training young.
Although older dogs can be taught to enjoy their crates as well, it's easier to train a young dog. If your puppy is a large breed, don't train him in a large crate that you think he'll grow into. Dogs won't relieve themselves where they sleep or relax, so you need the crate to be appropriately sized.
If you use a crate that's too large, he might urinate in the far corner of it because he has so much space. Make the crate an inviting space. You want him to create a positive association with the crate, so that he enjoys his time in there. When you begin the crate training process, place the crate somewhere the household gathers. The idea is to make the crate part of the social scene rather than a place of isolation. Place a soft blanket and some of your dog's favorite toys inside the crate. Encourage him to enter the crate. Once you've made the crate an inviting space, use treats to lure him inside.
At first, place some outside the door so he can explore the exterior of the crate. Then, place treats just inside the door, so he will poke his head in to retrieve them. As he grows more comfortable, place the treats further and further inside the crate. Do this until your dog enters the crate without hesitation.
Always speak in your "happy voice" when acclimating your dog to the crate. Feed the dog in his crate. Once he's comfortable entering the crate for treats, reinforce the positive association with mealtime. Place his dog bowl wherever he's comfortable eating. If he's still a little anxious, you might have to place it right by the door. As he grows more comfortable over time, place the dog bowl further back into the cage. Begin closing the door behind him. With treats and feeding, you'll find that your dog is growing more acclimated to being in the crate.
He still needs to learn how to cope with the door being closed. Begin closing the door at mealtime, when the dog too distracted by his food to notice what's going on at first. Close the door for very short periods, lengthening the time as the dog grows more comfortable. Don't reward the dog for whining. When a puppy whines, it may be adorable and heartbreaking, but when a grown dog whines, it can drive you nuts. If your puppy whines inconsolably, you may have left him inside the crate for too long. However, you cannot release him from the crate until the whining stops.
Remember — every reward you give reinforces the dog's last behavior, which was whining in this case. Instead, release the dog once he's stopped whining. The next time you close the door on the crate, leave him in for a shorter period of time. Comfort your dog during long crate sessions. If your puppy cries when he's alone in the crate, bring the crate into your bedroom at night. Have a tick tock clock or white noise machine to help the puppy get to sleep. Young puppies should be crated in your room at night so that you can hear them tell you they need to go out in the middle of the night.
Otherwise, they will be forced to mess in the crate. My puppy wants to bite my feet. I'm having a hard time knowing how to stop it without giving him attention. I offer his toys, turn and walk away, tell him "No," but all of those things just make him do it more. What should I do? This is a tough one, as the puppy sees your feet as great toys!
Be sure to stand still, and try distracting with an especially squeaky toy which you toss for him to chase. As a last resort, keep a small spray bottle of water in your pocket. When he goes for your feet, say "Stop" firmly, and if he doesn't, squirt him with water. Not Helpful 19 Helpful Find a tasty treat he loves and make him earn it as a reward. Work on one command at a time "Sit" is a good one to start with in a room without distractions. Have your dog lay down. Wait for him to stand up. When he stands up, click and treat.
Repeat this action several times until he learns that he has to stand up in order to get his treat. Standing is so natural that it is likely that the dog won't immediately understand why he is being rewarded, so it may take more repetition than usual.
5 essential commands you can teach your dog | Cesar's Way
Initially, it's okay to click even if Give the command to sit. After waiting five to eight seconds, go ahead and use the vocal command with a hand motion of your choice to tell your dog to be released from his sitting position. If you act excited while doing this, your dog should naturally release. When he does so, click and treat. Repeat this step until your dog is consistently releasing. Eventually, you will want to be This is perhaps the most important command to teach your dog.
It could save your dog's life! Load the cue instead of the clicker. Go up to your dog and give the command that you will use to call the dog, then treat him. Say the word "here Puddles" and give him a piece of bacon. Repeat multiple times during the day and each time give different treats bacon, chicken Begin by having your dog on a leash looped to your belt on your left side. That way you don't have to use your hands to hold the leash. Should your dog pull on the leash— never go in the direction that your dog is pulling. Get one of your dog's favorite toys and set it on the ground.
Wait for him to pick it up in his mouth. Repeat this several times. When he starts picking up the toy without hesitation, start using the command take it when you click and treat. With your dog on a leash, let her smell the dog biscuit - then drop it two or three feet in front of her. Call her by name and say "leave it" as she starts for the treat.
Obedience Training for Dogs
Restrain her with the leash. When your dog looks at you, click and treat with the chicken cube. Praise her as she gives up the Encourage your dog to come towards you with the toy. Click and treat if he brings it towards you a few steps. Do this a few times. Keep encouraging him to come nearer to you with the toy. Click and treat when he comes to you with the toy Hold the object in your hand and say touch. Click treat when he touches the object not when he touches your hand.
Call the object by its name tug, squeaky, bunny, etc. Whenever you take him outside, have him touch the bell first. The reward is to open the door Do this each time, introducing a command such as "Park" or "Find a good spot. Be consistent, but vary the reward Have your dog sit and stay while you lay a stick on the ground. Cross over to the other side of the stick and call your dog. As soon as the dog crosses the stick, click and treat.
Do this a few more times before adding height to the stick by placing a couple of thick books underneath it. Click and treat while he is crossing the stick Let your dog get used to the hoop. Set it on the ground; click and treat when he approaches it. Have a helper hold the hoop do not elevate the hoop on the floor in front of him. Call your dog or lure him through the hoop. Click and treat as he walks through the hoop If your dog can comfortably jump over a stick elevated about 25 inches from the ground then you can begin to teach him to jump over people who are on their hands and knees in the crawl position.
Have your dog jump over the stick. Have a helper kneel Place a piece of tape or a disk on the floor. Practice this several times until your dog knows to go to the marker to get his treat. Call the marker by its name mark, spot, disk, etc. Using your touch stick, guide your dog around in a circular motion. As he makes a full turn, click and treat.
Keep doing this several times, eventually adding a hand signal circular motion with index finger. Use the touch stick less. When your dog can spin without the touch stick, add your command. Wait for him to offer lifting his paw Catch this trick with the clicker. Click and treat after you give him a bath or after you go outside in the rain when he shakes the water off.
With your touch stick, hold it high in the air so that he has to jump up to touch it. As soon as his legs come off the ground, click and treat. If he's having trouble, start out with Lure him with the training stick or with your treat to have him move over to one hip and on his side. Use the lure to get him to go over on his back. This may take time for some dogs. Get down on your dog's level with your dog sitting in front of you. Each time her hindquarters Get your dog to bark. For example, if you know that your dog barks when the doorbell is rung, then ring the bell, and when he barks say "Speak" and click and treat.
After repeating this several times, try giving him the command Speak. If he obeys and barks, give him a jackpot Focus your attention on your dog while he is barking. If he looks at you and stops barking, even for a second, click and treat. Repeat this several times, eventually adding the word "Hush" as you click and treat. After several training sessions while your dog is barking, give your dog the command and click and treat when Take a rope toy and offer it to the dog and say "take it. When your dog takes it, gently shake and tug the rope toy to get the dog to hold and pull against the tugs.
Click and Treat when your dog tugs back on the rope toy. Use "Tug" as your command. Keep repeating this until Tie a bandana or cloth around your door. Tell him to tug it. Wait until he tugs the door open, then click and treat. Keep doing this, eventually saying, "open" whenever he tugs the door open. Click and treat every time. After your training session, he should be able to open the door at your command If your dog has mastered tug and bring it, teaching fetch will be easy. Start by playing tug. Say the "take it" command when you want your dog to pick up the rope toy, and then the "give" when you want him to release the rope.
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